Berluti is a French luxury menswear house founded in Paris in 1895 by Alessandro Berluti, an Italian shoemaker who established himself in the city to serve the Parisian elite. Now owned by LVMH, Berluti began as a bespoke shoe atelier and has evolved into a full luxury menswear brand encompassing ready-to-wear, leather goods, and accessories — while retaining its identity as one of the most distinguished names in men’s luxury footwear.
Key Facts
- Founded: 1895
- Founder: Alessandro Berluti
- Headquarters: Paris, France
- Parent Company: LVMH (since 1993)
- Industry: Luxury Menswear, Footwear, Leather Goods
History
Alessandro Berluti trained under the Italian cobbling tradition and brought his craft to Paris at the height of Belle Époque luxury. His grandson Olga Berluti joined the house in the 1960s and developed what became the brand’s signature: a patina technique for leather that produces deeply luminous, painterly finishes on shoes. The patina — developed using aged cognac and candlelight to open the leather’s pores — became Berluti’s most distinguishing characteristic and attracted a cult following.
LVMH acquired Berluti in 1993. The house expanded into ready-to-wear under creative directors including Alessandro Sartori (2011–2016), Haider Ackermann (2016–2018), and Kris Van Assche (2018–2021). Since Van Assche’s departure in December 2021, Berluti has presented collections without a named Creative Director.
Craft and Aesthetic
Berluti’s shoes are hand-lasted in its Parisian atelier and in workshops in Ferrara, Italy. The patina work, which can take months to develop on a single pair, gives each shoe a unique quality closer to fine art than mass production. The ready-to-wear has consistently reflected a dark, refined Parisian masculine aesthetic — luxurious fabrics, controlled silhouettes, and a restrained use of detail.
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